These days you can dine as well in the country as you would in the city. The country offers a treasure trove of small inns and tables champetres: country tables that accent fresh regional products on their menus. As we head into the fall,don't miss the opportunityto steal away for a day or two to take in the glorious fall foliage and savor the best of the local harvest.
Tucked in along a trdd-lined road, Le Bocage, in Moe's River near Compton, is a fine exemple of the perfect country get away. Low boughs almost mask the lane to the picturesque white Victorian clapboard house,which dates to 1825. The inn is run by Dominique and Michel Guilbeault, who have mastered the art of country dining and made Le Bocage one of the best dining spots in the Eastern Townships.
The former Montrealers were drawn to the country a decade ago in pursuit of a job opportunity for Michel while Dominique took up gardening and raising animals. "I never grew anything in my life." she said with a laugh. Her first summer crop proved to be a windfall of 1,500 tomatoes and a barnyard of 350 young roosters.
J O H A N N A B U R K H A R D
WHAT'S COOKING
To handle the food surplus, in 1988 the couple started inviting the public to come and dine at their home for a fee. All the while, Dominique, a self-taught chef, was perfecting her cooking skills and gaining a loyal following of appreciative diners, Now their 30-seat dining room is filled throughout the summer as well as weekends in the winter - all solely by word of mouth.
"Many of our customers have come back so often they've become our friends" added Dominique.What's unique about dining at Le Bocage is there's no menu to choose from. Each day, the couple plan two six course discovery menus based on what's available from their enormous vegetable and herb garden. They also raise their own duck and partridge and have lamb, rabbit and quail raised for them on nearby farms.
"And everything is homemade from beginning to end" says Michel who left his job two years ago to help Dominique run the business.
"We even make our own pasta, ice cream and bread from scratch, even our own vinegar from wine" added Dominique whose cooking talents are best described as contemporary regional and influenced by flavors from around the world.
Here a menu sampler served last week:It began with a salmon gravlax with tomatillo salsa followed by green tomato soup. Next came a hot cheese cake with herbs and pine nuts with hot [e[[er coulis followed by a refreshing apple and tarragon sorbet.The main course was roasted quail with pears in red wine with a lavender creme brulee for dessert, served with espresso or chocolate mint tea.
On Sept. 12. Dominique Guilbeault will join other celebrated Townships chefs such as Alain Labrie of Relais Chateaux Auberge Hatley and Claude Jodoin of Falaise St. Michel to cook for the Gala des Grands Chefs de l'Estrie. The fundraiser is organized by the Canadian Cancer Society and will be held at Delta hotel in Sherbrooke. The six course menu includes accompanying wines and will highlight fine products that have been donated by local growers. Ticket prices are $125. A few tickets remain. to reserve call (819) 562-8869